Sewing Machine Needles Basics: Choosing the Right Needle for Your Sewing Project

Are you just starting out on your sewing adventure or wondering which sewing machine needle you should use for your next bag or accessory project?

You've come to the right place! In this blog post, we'll guide you through everything you need to know about sewing machine needles, their features, and how to select the perfect one for your projects.

Quick Needle Know-How:

• Choosing the right needle ensures clean, even stitches.
• Different needles are designed for specific fabrics and materials.
• Replace your needle approximately every 8–10 sewing hours for the best results.

Have you ever wondered what those colored marks and numbers on sewing needles mean? Let's unravel this mystery together!

Fun Fact!

The sewing machine needle was invented in 1800 by Balthasar Krems from Mayen, Germany, laying the foundation for modern sewing as we know it.

Which Needle Size is Best?

The basic rule is simple: The smaller the needle size, the finer your stitching. Always choose the smallest suitable needle size for your fabric to avoid large stitch holes and achieve professional results. It's a good idea to test your needle and thread combination on a scrap fabric first.

How Often Should You Change Your Sewing Machine Needle?

As a general rule, swap your needle for every new sewing project. We always like to start fresh with each sewing adventure! If your needle seems fine, quickly check by running your finger gently over the needle tip. Any bumps or irregularities mean it's time to change your needle.

Replace your needle immediately if:

• It feels bent or uneven.
• You've accidentally sewn over zippers, pins, or thick seams.

Typically, sewing needles last about 8–10 hours of sewing time. Regular needle changes keep your sewing machine happy and your seams flawless!

Understanding Needle Markings

Sewing machine needles often have colored markings:

• Upper color: Indicates the needle type (material suitability).
• Orange: Jersey and stretch fabrics.
• Brown: Leather and faux-leather.
• Purple: Microtex (fine fabrics).
• Blue: Denim and canvas.
• Yellow: Stretch materials.
• Red: Embroidery needles.
• Lower color: Represents the needle size.

Needles without color coding are usually universal needles, suitable for general sewing tasks.

Needle Numbers Explained

When you see numbers like 130/705 or 15x1H, these indicate needles compatible with standard domestic sewing machines. These numbers ensure you're choosing needles that will fit and function properly with your machine.

Flat Shank vs. Round Shank Needles

• Flat Shank: Common for modern home sewing machines, recognizable by the flat side on the needle’s upper end.
• Round Shank: Typically used in older or industrial machines, with a rounded upper end.

Types of Sewing Machine Needles

Universal Needles

• Sizes: NM 60–120
• Usage: Most woven fabrics, especially cotton.
• Tip: Slightly rounded, suitable for general purposes.

Jersey Needles

• Sizes: NM 70–100
• Usage: Knit fabrics like jersey and stretch materials.
• Tip: Rounded tip to prevent fabric damage.

Overlock/Coverlock Needles

• Usage: Specially designed to handle the high speeds and stress of overlock and coverlock machines.

Metallic Needles

• Usage: Ideal for decorative metallic threads.
• Tip: Specially designed eye to minimize friction.

Microtex Needles

• Sizes: NM 60–110
• Usage: Fine synthetic fabrics, microfiber, silk, neoprene, and coated fabrics.
• Tip: Sharp and precise for delicate sewing.

Leather Needles

• Sizes: NM 70–120
• Usage: Leather and leather-like materials.
• Tip: Sharp, cutting point for durable seams.

Quilting Needles

• Usage: Quilt and padded fabrics, prevents fabric damage.
• Tip: Slightly rounded to glide smoothly through layered fabric.

Embroidery Needles

• Color: Red
• Usage: Decorative embroidery threads, reduces thread breakage.

Stretch Needles

• Sizes: NM 65, 75, 90
• Color: Yellow
• Usage: Elastic fabrics, swimwear, sportswear.
• Tip: Prevents skipped stitches, ideal for stretchy materials.

Jeans or Denim Needles

• Sizes: NM 70–110
• Color: Blue
• Usage: Denim, canvas, heavy linen.
• Tip: Sharp point for dense fabric.

Topstitch Needles

• Usage: Decorative topstitching on denim, upholstery, and heavy fabrics.
• Tip: Larger eye accommodates thick threads.

Special Needles (Primarily for Garment Sewing)

Twin Needles

• Usage: Decorative hems, pintucks, decorative stitching.
• Tip: Requires compatible sewing machines and two threads.

Triple Needles

• Usage: Elastic hems, decorative faux-cover stitches.
• Tip: Uses four threads for decorative finishes.

Wing Needles (Hemstitch)

• Usage: Decorative hems and embroidered looks on woven fabrics.
• Tip: Creates decorative holes, ideal for heirloom sewing.

Sewing Needles for Sequin Fabrics

• Use stretch needles if the base fabric is stretchy.
• Always remove sequins from seam allowance before sewing to prevent needle breakage.
• Hand-sew sequins back if gaps appear after stitching.

TIP: Check sequin durability by trying to break one. If it snaps easily, your machine can handle it; if not, remove before sewing.

Storing Sewing Machine Needles

Here is another handy tip for storing your sewing machine needles:

Look for a practical storage box, such as those found at hardware stores, allowing you to neatly sort your needles. Use small pieces of foam (like from a kitchen sponge) to insert used needles and easily differentiate them from fresh ones. This simple method will add even more organization to your sewing space!

Wrapping Up

We hope this guide helps you feel confident choosing and using the right sewing machine needle for your next bag or accessory project! Got more questions or tips to share? Drop us a comment below—we’d love to help.

Happy Sewing!

Your MakeDesignerBags Team